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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got the SBH hammer and the free spin pawl in the first one tonight. I filed the pawl and actually got it right the first time. Here it is with the one that's not done yet.



 

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Will do you have them both done now? I like the SBH hammers, looking good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'll probably do the second one tomorrow night, Danny. I'm just finishing up a 12 hour shift here at work and don't feel like dealing with it tonight.

John from start to finish including filing the pawl, it took about 1 hour. It could be done faster but I haven't done many.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I decided screw it and did the second one tonight. It took almost an hour again. :roll: But it's done! :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Jim, a free spin pawl will allow the cylinder to travel in either direction. You no longer here the click as the cylinder turns, because the pawl no longer makes contact with the ratchet. Having a free spin cylinder will allow you to unload and load quicker because you manually line up the chamber to the ejector rod. if you miss a chamber you don't have to go all the way around to hit it again. Changing out the pawl isn't a lot of work, but it can be frustrating to someone at my level of know how. I filed a couple of regular pawls, because they were $5 a piece. If I buy a Power pawl that is already filed, they are $30 a piece. I figured for a total of $50 I'd file my own. I can attach a picture of a modified pawl from home tonight if you'd like.
 

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Any effect on lockup? Does that keep the cylinder latch from scoring the cylinder??? If you're going into SASS...do you have an unmodified one to shoot?  Sure do like that hammer...it'd be my choice on all your SAs---looks much easier to reach....and to carry...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It's not SASS legal.

The cylinder ring is caused by a short hammer plunger. A slightly longer one will stop that. The Pawl has nothing to do with the cylinder locking. The pawl only rotates the cylinder by pushing up on the ratchet. One corner of the pawl catches and keeps the cylinder from rotating backwards.

The grip frame needs to be removed and then the trigger and hammer pins need to be removed. The trigger and hammer and pawl and transfer bar will then come out. Replace the pawl and drop everything back in place. Bam! Free spin city!
 

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That little doobie that pops up and locks into the cylinder stop notch can be adjusted by the hammer plunger??? So much I don't know...but I've seen revolvers ruined all my life by someone spinning the cylinder and wearing that idiot ring around the cylinder...that's one of the two reasons I don't like blued guns....
 

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I've done the pawl mod and did the Power pawl replacment , which I like a little better .
If you are a SASS shooter and pull the hammer over 1/2 way and it falls and you recock
it it will skip that chamber . With the Power pawl if you drop the hammer just reach up and
and turn cylinder backwards and it wouldn't skip that chamber . Some of the ones I did that
I filed the pawl you can't do that if the hammer goes past 3/4 of the way . So if you don't
need the gun to do that file it and save $30 .
 

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Looks good Bountyhunter. I did the pawl modification on both my vaquero and accusport bisley. I really like how they work.

Next job is to ream the cylinder throats and an 11 degree forcing cone reamer. The reamers are on their way. I am so excited. Hopefully I'll be able to shoot more and scrub lead less.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Reaming the throats makes a big differance. I haven't ordered the chamfer kit to cut the cone yet, but I get pretty much zero leading. :)
 

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I just rented the tools from Iowegan. They are supposed to be here Saturday or Monday. If I could afford to buy a bunch more .45's I would probably want my own tools. Cheaper this way to do a one-time job. Plus, he is a great guy to deal with.
 
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