scopes

in a 4 x 28, the "4" stands for 4 times the magnification, the "28" is the size of the objective lens in millimeters.

in a 3 x 9 x32 scope, it denotes a scope that has a bottom end magnification of 3, variable to a top end magnificaion of 9, with a 32mm objective lens.

All of this is subjective as the magnification power settings are "rounded" to the nearest whole number. Many that say "3" power may be closer to a 2.8 power or a 3.1 power in strength.

As far as the objective end, generally, the larger the objective end, the more light gathering capability the scope has in gathering light in low light situtations to see the image. From memory, it has to do with the size of the exit pupil of the eye. An old rule of thumb was to take the objective end of the scope and devide by "7" . This would show the maximum power setting on a scope that would allow the most light for the image to be transmitted to the eye. Again, from memory 7 mm is the maximun exit size of the eye pupil for gathering light. The 4x28 scope would then transmit just as bright and clear of an image as a 4x32 or a 4x36 scope. But a 4x20 scope would not present a clear bright picture in low light conditions as twenty divided by seven would indicate its brightest power setting would be a little less than 3x power. You would probably not notice this until late evening or early morning as it would not make a hoot of difference at 1pm in the afternoon. AGAIN THIS IS FROM MEMORY SO SOME OF IT MAY BE SUSPECT. Then the quality of the lens and various coatings set in to effect light transmission and clarity as well but i can't remember all that techinical stuff and terms.

The down side is the bigger the objective lens is for more magnification/light transmission, the bulkier the scope and higher rings may be required to get the objective end off the barrel.

the other main thing i consider is i want a scope with a one inch diameter tube as there are tons of rings available fo that size scope tube body. All ruger 77 rifles leave the factory with 1" scope rings and 1" is the most popular size by far in this Country...........


here is a link to chuck hawks information site. This may help.......
http://www.chuckhawks.com/index2i.scopes_optics.htm

Scope instillation is not a hard thing to do, it's a small bit of dancing if you have never done it before especially in chosing the proper ring height and eye relief position. The simplest thing to do would be to have the shop install it with you watching the procedure and asking questions while it is done as that will put it into perspective the quickest---and not all shops provide the scope mounting service so it is a nice touch. Matter of fact, while there, ask if you can do the work yourself with their supervision/guidence lookin' over your shoulder-----this would help tremendously and most gunshop folks are quite helpfull.

The mounts and choice of ring height go hand in hand with the scope you sellect. The larger the objective end, more than likely the higher ring mount you will need. if you are going with a 28 or 32 mm objective, then more than likely the standard low rings offered from various makers will work depending on your barrel profile. The style of ring will depend on the style of base. If its a weaver base for example with the cross-slots, then the weaver rings, or leupold rifleman rings, burris zee rings, etc will function wiht that style base. Leupold dove tail bases require the turn in rings.

Your rear sight should be of the fold-down type on the mdl 39 so that should help as well to keep the scope off of it or out of the way. At 4x, you probably will not see the front sight thru the scope----you would see the front sight and front portion of barrel looking thru the scope if you had a 1x or 2x power scope as the field of view is so much larger.

To positon the scope, you want the cross hairs straight up and down in the rings. For eye relief, you will have the scope in the rings "semi-snug" where you can with minimal force, slide the scope forward or backwards to get the eye relief set for yourself. Have the occular end (eyepiece) too close to your eye or too far from your eye, you will not get a full sight picture wich will result in a half moon or three-quarter moon view thru the scope. Set the scope eye relief standing and holding the gun like you shoot---not on the bench--that way you are in your comortable shooting position that you would be in normally to use the scope. After you get your eye relief right and the cross hairs are straight, tighten her down.

I've used bore sighter tools before and they are handy for getting it on paper and nothing more. if you do not have a bore sighter tool, with the lever action your best bet is to eye-ball it on as straight as you can and with the 22, sight in close at 20 yards to get it where you want making adjustments and taking your time doing it, then back it out to 50 yds, and re-sight and make adjustments.

it will be trial and error the 1st time you do it but will be worth the learnin' curve especially later on should you decide to change scopes or get another rifle.

its kind of awkard at 1st just like breaking a gun down for the 1st time, but after you do it, it gets easier and easier.

Deputy, thanks to you I've made a lot of progress today.

Unfortunately, I stopped by another gun shop on my way home and took a peek through a Leopold. Holy crap. It's just like anything else, man, I can pick up something expensive and just KNOW it! The crosshairs are finer, the optics are better, the whole thing just seems really nice. And the guy explained about the paralax and everything, this scope is their rimfire model, and he explained and showed how at closer distances you can keep the crosshairs and target both in focus. Really nice.

I am really close to going after work tomorrow and buying it. They will install and bore sight it too.

In fact I'm so close, not only did I put the Marlin in a case to go with me tomorrow, I picked a case that's tall enough to accommodate a scope. Sounds to me like I've made up my mind!

And your thought about having them watch while I do it, I did exactly that with my SR9 about breaking it down. It helped a lot, helped me remember better since it was my hands doing the tasks involved.