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there is the ole' trick of taking one trigger spring off..........

remove one grip panel and just lift this one spring off as pictured-----not both. put the grip back on and give it a whirl........





this is an old trick i learned years back and it does work. there is an article about it here at gunblast. http://www.gunblast.com/images/poorboy/Mvc-006f.jpg

They also go into the "poor boy" trigger job of applying presure to the hammer while pulling the trigger. I've done this before and it works very well on blackhawks and on a 336 marlin 30-30 lever i had------but a certain gunsmith on a certain board is rabid about this being the absolute wrong thing to do and is harmful to the gun. My thoughts is light pressure a couple of times sure did make a difference but i can see how it could get abused if one gets caried away.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I've done that in the past, Deputy. I had a couple people tell me that it may give me light primer hits. I don't know, because I didn't shoot it. I just tried while dry firing. I put the spring back on before I went to the range. I've also heard about pressure on the hammer while pulling the trigger. I think this smooths out metal on metal contact points. The 45 I just got actually has a pretty smooth trigger pull. I know that a gun smith changed the grip frame and I'm not sure what else was done to it, if anything.
 

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I think what he is saying is there is a chance for the removed arm to bind on the hammer spring and cause light hits. I never had it happen to me, just don’t like loose parts floating around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I wasn't told why. It was something I read on another board a long while back. It could be that I misunderstood too. :? It's nice to know that it's not a problem though. :D
 

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If that spring didn't need to be attached to both pins, that arm would have never been made. Bending springs might be OK too but why put a weak spot in them. Springs are very intricate pieces of machinery. I would not cut off, stretch or put kinks in a spring to try to alter the way it works. You can’t go wrong with Wolff springs. That’s the only brand I ever use in Anybody’s guns.
I’m the drummer and I approve this message. LMAO Just my findings and opinion based on experience.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I appreciate the input, Drummer. I of course went ahead and bent the hell out of the spring. Mostly because I have no self control, and a little because I'm a bit reckless. :)
 

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To anyone other than BH, I would tell them what to do after bending the springs to get a lighter trigger pull. I would tell anyone else that now they probably notice a lot of trigger creep and in order to remove it light stoning of the hammer is in order. But BH has no self control and is a bit reckless, so he might end up with a hammer that could be pushed off of cocked. :D
 

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In all seriousness, if your trigger has the amount of creep that my Bisley and Vaquero had, you may want to reduce it by removing metal from the hammer. If you do, just remember to go slow and only remove a little at a time.
 

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I do SASS and CAS and with the 30 oz trigger springs , I leave the creep in and I don't even notice when I shoot , plus less chance of a unwanted discharge . The same thing with my hunting gun . Only my target guns get the creep and trigger stop work . I've also put the stock hammer springs back into my SASS and CAS gun . The wolf springs increase lock time and I must slow down with them in it or I over run target , but for hunting and target they work perfect .
 
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